Kakadu National Park

With a week before we had to be back in Darwin we saw it as the best opportunity to explore Mary River and Kakadu National Parks. With a couple of odd jobs (including installing a new winch after the old one died in W.A. we decided to upgrade to one that would actually do the job – hello Ironman winch) and plenty of things see and do, we were on our way and made it to Mary River Billabong just in time for the ever important happy hour. Although not technically a campsite it was too late to keep going and with the backdrop we had we decided that we were quite happy to spend the night.

We found these ants on one of the 4x4 tracks, we later learnt that they're delicious and can be used to make lemonade!

The next morning we crossed the river and headed east. We ventured down to Annaburroo Billabong. We had seen signs advertising that it was a swimming spot and thought we’d pull up there for a picnic, turns out its actually a station stay/camping park but the owners had decided it wasn’t viable so they had closed up shop. We ended up talking to the owner who said we were welcome to stay for a swim and a picnic as we seemed like a nice couple – we jumped at the chance considering how hot it already was and that she had promised the billabong was croc free.

The Mary River from Couzen's Lookout.

Over the next few days we proceeded to explore more of Mary River National Park, including a stay at Couzen’s Lookout and Shady Camp. We were eager to see crocs as we had found out that Mary River has the highest population of crocs measuring over 4m in the world. However, given a local had been killed by a rather large saltie the week before, we didn’t want to get too close! Couzen’s Lookout provided some water access, the main appeal however was being able to set up early, find some shade and install the winch and throw a lure in the Mary River. Shady Camp lived up to its name with some massive trees that engulfed the Hulk in shade once we parked beneath. We welcomed the coastal breeze after a 40 km 4x4 track that took us past billabongs, lagoons, light scrub, thick forest and wildlife in abounds – still no crocs though. Located next to Shady Camp is a barrage that stops saltwater from entering the fresh water system that is popular among anglers on the hunt for Barra. We spotted several crocs eyeing off hopefully the fish and not the fishermen. It was a little off putting only seeing croc eyes and snout emerged from the water, however still pretty cool to see some salties in the wild. We also got a bit of a show, as some blokes tried to launch their boat at low tide, resulting in a beached boat until they eventually decided it wasn’t worth it. Good choice after watching one of the fellows wading in the water for a while and the aforementioned crocs.

Some of the animals found around camp - above a cute roo family, below a watchful croc.

We left The Mary in search of Kakadu. That day we only made it as far as 2 Mile Hole, a great freebie on the Wildman River. We spent the day relaxing and fishing, though the only thing we caught was a lure that somehow Michael managed to hook. We had a glorious campfire and the next day ventured further into Kakadu. Our first stop off was Mamukala, a lagoon where we saw hundreds of ducks and other waterbirds all congregating here as the smaller waterholes in the area were drying up fast.

The Bowali Visitor Centre is a great attraction in the park, with loads of local information, interactive displays and free video of the park. Living in Alice Springs also managed to save us 50 bucks – go Territory Discounts! We had lunch at Jabiru (the only township in Kakadu), where you know you’re rural when there is a dingo in the local park. Ubirr was our destination for the night, so we quickly ducked into Merl campground to do a loop and pick a site before driving up to the Ubirr lookout for sunset. We joined the masses climbing up a huge natural rocky outcrop, passing many ancient aboriginal art works. When we reached the top we were blown away by the view of the surrounding wetlands and sat down to watch the show. Once the sun had set we didn’t dawdle as we had been told by the ranger that on dark millions of mosquitoes would flood the area.  Luckily we made it back to the Hulk without a bite, and in no time at all resettled at Merl, had tea and showers and another glorious day was done.

What a view - at Ubirr!

Cahills Crossing is the causeway over the East Alligator River that provides access to Arnhem Land (sadly not on the agenda for this trip – just another reason for a next time). At this time of year the river is little more than a trickle over the causeway, however come high tide the tidal waters flow upstream enough for the fish to start visibly migrating across the causeway thus producing an excellent buffet for the crocs. We only expected to see a couple of crocs, but there was easily 10 adult crocodiles there with a couple measuring over 4 meters! We watched on in awe as these prehistoric beings dined on the fish coming their way; we also saw a couple of crocs cross the causeway – absolutely well worth the stop!  

One of the crocs sliding off the crossing.

Once more we had lunch in Jabiru and then headed to Malabanjbanjdju (say that three times! – in fact say it once!) campground for a relaxing evening. We met a German backpacker there who was waiting for the fruit picking season to begin and found the cheapest camp he could. He had several interesting things to say, but the one that stands out was that he was under the belief that when a backpacker hops off a plane the government delegates them three flies that will stay with you for the rest of the trip – I’m wondering if there was some truth to this, potentially if you’re an Aussie you get dished out 5, I reckon we’ve had the same ones following us for a loooong time! Anyway we lit the fire and watched as other backpackers pulled up nigh on dark. Always fun to watch others set up.

Then next morning we found ourselves letting the tyres down anticipating the track to Jim Jim Falls. To get to the campground involved once more shaking and rattling along a 55 kms unsealed and very unmaintained dirt road. Needless to say, the Hulk made it in one piece however a few of its innards had bounced around. The camp ground had plenty of green grass, fire places and even had solar showers, so we were more than happy to spend the night. We popped down some chairs to reserve our spot then decided it was time to tackle the 4x4 track into Jim Jim. We were worried that this road would be more corrugations though we were pleasantly surprised that for once 4x4 meant 4x4! Huzzah! Although only 15kms or so the track took us 45 minutes to complete, with a couple of water crossings and even a spot that called for low range with all 4 tyres not always planted firmly on the ground. After that wicked drive it was time to do the walk into Jim Jim Falls. I use the word walk loosely as although the first part of the journey is a semi formed path the second half involved rock jumping, scrambling and  following an occasional sign that pointed us in a general direction “that way”. We were ridiculously thankful that at the end we were greeted with wonderful white sands and a cold pool that was croc free and calling for us. We swam in the clear and refreshing waters of the beach pool, following a small alleyway that lead us to the main plunge pool. The waters of the second pool were icy cold so we jumped in and out more to say we’d been there and done that, then hurried back to the other pool before hypothermia set in. We were aware that it was late in the season so the falls weren’t so much falling as trickling, but that didn’t matter – this place was beautiful and well worth the walk/scramble/jumping to get in. Leaving the place was another matter, it was hard to find the energy and want to leave the falls and return to the Hulk in the heat of the day. Somehow we eventually got there and returned via the fun 4x4 track to the campground. That night we ate potentially one of the best camp oven casseroles we’d had all trip (maybe we’d just worked up more of an appetite). We sat around the fire and talked to the ranger when she came around, buying tickets for the boat ride into Twin Falls and discussing numerous cases of drowned cars that were not capable of crossing the river to the falls, and also got the inside scoop on a secret campsite and waterfall in Kakadu that’s not on the map – You Beauty!

Only 3 tyres are touching!

The road to Twin Falls was the same as Jim Jim, however with an extra 10 km added on for good measure. There were a few sandy patches before we found the fun part – a 60 cm deep river crossing, the highest we’ve ever done. From there it was not far to the car park, then a quick dash to the banks (to beat a busload of tourists) and we were on the boat headed for the falls. The cruise in felt like we were entering Jurassic Park, the natural formations around us were ancient and untouched, full of mystery. The fellow taking us in was local and had many fascinating stories to tell, he also mentioned that no one can swim at the falls anymore as crocodiles can now get in. We moored on a bank and were told to radio in when we were ready to return. We then walked through several layers of the gorge (stopping at a specific waterfall to drink - the fellow told us that it was healing water so why not!). We saw several fish and once again Michael found a bridge, this time a floating one, to test the structural integrity of.  At the end the walls of the gorge opened up to a magnificent pool with several small waterfalls flowing into it, you could tell that in the wet season this place would be something to behold. We explored around and had morning tea, the massive crocodile trap was interesting to look at, but served as a gentle reminder of what could be lurking in the waters. Eventually we meandered back to the bank and radioed in, leaving with the same feeling we had approached with, a sense of wonderment of Mother Nature. We drove the same way we had come, had lunch in a shady picnic area by the river and helped some backpackers in a Wicked rental 4x4 thoroughly bogged in the sand. We had a feeling they weren’t quite sure what to do so decided to lend a hand. Turns out we were right as the tyres were still at highway pressure, 4wd was not engaged and they didn’t know how to get out. We gave them a quick 4x4 lesson, appalled that Wicked had told them they would not need the 4x4 gears, then help them escape the sand.  With the heat of the day upon us, we stopped in at camp for a quick shower then enjoyed the nonsensically corrugated road out of camp.

Going into Twin Falls

A croc trap - a gentle reminder not to swim at the falls...

We stayed the night at Jim Jim Billabong, putting us in prime position to see Yellow Water Billabong in the morning then head out to Old Jim Jim Road to begin our journey back to Darwin. It’s always the dirt roads that produce the fun and exciting things, and knowing that the car can handle makes it all worthwhile. We stopped briefly by the West Alligator River for a snack then followed a 4x4 track north towards some camp grounds. The track was superb, leading us past several billabongs overflowing with life. We saw Jabirus and Brolgas and countless other birds, we travelled past savannah lands and through forests and burning bushes and most notably on a road that wasn’t corrugated but did require some thought and skill. Eventually it was time for a break, we had made it to the first camp, Alligator Billabong, and decided to settle for lunch and a spot of fishing. After several casts Michael managed to reel in a fish that had some serious strength behind it, turns out it was a beautiful Barramundi! Sadly, at ½ metre long he was still slightly undersize, and after some pics it was time to send him home – great experience.

Dinner! If only?!

We stayed the night at Red Lily Billabong, a secluded campsite on the banks of the river. We camped 15 metres or so away, aware that there might be crocs lurking however none were spotted all afternoon. In the evening my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to take a torch to the water to see if any beast were lurking nearby. The amount of croc eyes staring back at me were alarming and a nearby fish jumping out of the water was enough to send me running to the safety of the camper. This continued in the morning when we were carrying out our morning rituals and there was a rather large croc head across the water. Michael said that it was rather cool to see one however he’d like one closer to get a better picture, and lo and behold one popped up on our side of the bank 10 metres away from where we were standing. We backed back, took a few photos and were once again flabbergasted by these massive creatures. We got the binoculars out and ended up spotting several other crocodiles lurking around the river. By that time we’d had our excitement for the morning and decided it was time to go!

The sneaky croc on our side of the bank.

We followed the 4x4 track, eventually exiting Kakadu and then once more re-entered the Mary River NP for a spot to sleep. We found a “camp site” by a river with some green grass and plenty of wildlife around and decided to call it an evening, ready to return to Darwin the next day.

Roos near our campsite, we decided the three at the front were the three amigos 

Looking back I think that Kakadu was every bit as wonderful as described, with wildlife and water in abundance. Despite one person along the way calling the park Kaka-don’t, it was well worth the trip and once again we found that venturing off the tar and talking to people heralded us the most amazing experiences.

Lesson of the week:  Just ‘cos you can’t see it, don’t mean it ain’t there!