The last of the Top End

After waving goodbye to the folks we booked into another van park - Discovery Darwin – as we needed to get Brucie serviced the next day and this gave us another great opportunity to return to Mindil Beach Markets. We once again watched Emdee and the fire show, however this time is was a more zany approach with a different fellow running the show. We snapped up a couple of bargains, a bit of food and had a great time, just as we were about to leave I saw a stall that did all sorts of kooky things with hair and I decided that I could not live without feathers in my hair. This meant waiting in line, however as a result of waiting around we managed to run into Geoff and Jen who had just popped into the markets. Turns out they were even staying at the same van park as us, so we decided to return back to the park and play catch ups. We spent the rest of the evening chatting about where we had been and what we’d been doing.

Sunset at Mindil Beach

Check out the entertainment!

The next morning was spent at Palmerston while we waited for the car to be serviced. We got to the shops before they were all open but managed to while away the morning at the shops and the library – time to catch up on our writing (sort of). Michael also received a phone call about a phone interview for a job application, which confirmed the van park was the best place to be tonight. With one chore complete, it was then time to take the car to  another mechanic for some minor welding, which meant a quick drive across town, then a taxi back to the van park where we could chill out in our chairs for a bit and relax in/around the stunning pool. Eventually it was time to pick the car back up, which was about the same time as Geoff was leaving to pick his up from the mechanic too. With us all committed to the park another night, we decided a cook up was in order to catch up some more and find out about future plans (and enjoy some of their air-con cabin luxury, apparently a break from swags are in order every couple of months).  What a great way to spend the evening!

After Michael had a quick phone interview the next morning, we were packed up and were ready to go. We said farewell once more to Geoff and Jen, but like always we were sure we would cross paths eventually. We did the boring stocking up of the camper, then had a little more enjoyment than normal when getting diesel - we met the resident rooster of the Shell Servo. This fine specimen had been living there the last two years, and even makes it into the news every now and again (good old NT News and their stories). We made sure we paid promptly, it looked as though he considers himself the boss, bouncer and enforcer of the servo. 

Noones getting past this guy!

We had grand plans to make it into Litchfield for the afternoon, then realised how close it actually was, and since we had actually managed an early start we were able to meander our way there. The first stop was Berry Springs once more, where we relaxed in the refreshing water and had archer fish swimming all around us. A quick lunch on the beautiful green grass was just the ticket, and then we made our way on, not too disappointed as we knew swimming would be on the agenda again soon.

Look at how thin the magnetic termite mounds are.

We had heard a few good stories about the Reynolds River 4x4 track in the southern end of Litchfield NP. Making it sound like a must do. Considering the GPS told us the dirt road from Berry Springs to Wangi Falls would be quicker than the Stuart Highway, we jumped at the chance to get off the beaten track instead of that boring highway we have already seen too much of. There were a couple of points of interest along the way, including a massive collection of magnetic termite mounds, and with only a few hundred corrugations we fared well. Before we knew it we had reached The Cascades, one of the newer attractions in the park and one we didn’t make it to with my folks. We chose to hike to the Lower Cascades as it promised a shorter walk to reach water. A swim was definitely in order as the heat was stifling and before too long we found ourselves a plunge pool that was perfect. We spotted a few fish in the pool but it wasn’t until I felt a gentle nip at my foot that we discovered the pool was full of tiny yabbies! These guys were great fun as they seemed very eager to come and get us, and were no trouble catching. Getting them out of the water was near on impossible though as they would suddenly jump out of our hand near the surface, only to float down defenceless as we (Michael) grabbed them up again.

Yabby.

Figuring we were here, and the Upper Cascades would be “just over there”, we ventured up the river in our swimmers climbing over rocks and wading through pools. Yes, we had decided we would do the loop walk and find the Upper Cascades then follow the walk back to the exit. After a ridiculous amount of time and energy, the cascades were no longer and the river began weaving through ever-thickening bush...  We decided this wasn’t going to work out well with 5 o’clock approaching and turned back around, figuring we had either missed the track altogether, or would simply retrace our steps out. Overhead the clouds were getting thicker and then all of a sudden, there was RAIN!!! We basked in the glory of the rain we hadn’t seen in months and were drenched after a few minutes. Not really being build-up season, the rain didn’t last long and soon we were looking for some new entertainment, namely a way out. I spotted a sign on the side of the river (almost overgrown), saying no swimming beyond this point (where we had passed 20 minutes or so earlier), and realised we had passed the Upper Cascades a while ago. Another 100 metres or so downstream we saw a sign indicating the car park was just 1.7 kms away, so off we went in thongs, swimmers and drenched hats and backpacks as the heat began to return. By the time we were at the car park we were absolutely exhausted and decided Wangi Falls would be our best choice to set up camp for the night.

The rain is amazing - no way could it dampen our spirits.

Once again Wangi Falls delivered the goods, with a great campsite (although nowhere near as good as last week – at least there were still a couple to choose from) and stunning showers to freshen ourselves up for the night. The next morning we went straight down to the falls for a swim. If we thought last week was great, this was unbelievable – we had the plunge pool all to ourselves – seems we’ve finally become “early risers”. After another beautiful swim it was time to begin our 4x4 adventure, hitting up a number of attractions over the day.

The Reynolds Track proved to be a wonderful journey! We first called in at Blythe Homestead, where we were transported into the days of yesteryear. The original timber homestead still stands where the Blythe family would battle the elements to make a living on cattle and a tin mine in the backyard (literally within 50 metres of the back door). It was fun going through the old relics and seeing what life was like, of particular interest was the youngest son who decided to take a crocodile as a pet, apparently this actually worked although the logistics of how is somewhat unclear.  Not so keen on having one as a pet myself.

We then moved onto Sandy Creek Falls, where a few kms walk following a goat track rewarded us with a spectacular swimming hole and waterfall – another hidden beauty. We had the place to ourselves for a while, but were eventually joined by a group taking underwater photos for an exhibition. With still a couple more things to do that day, we decided to wind our way back through the bush, have a quick lunch and continue along the 4wd track, which was increasingly getting interesting.  We passed field upon field of magnetic termite mounds, crossed several small creeks and eventually came to the Reynolds River, which involved a deep water crossing where you enter the water, start to cross, then need to turn in the river to then navigate around some trees and sand banks, then eventually exit on the steep bank on the other side. Something new, different and great fun! 

Sandy creek falls

Our final stop of the day was Surprise Creek Falls. The campground at Surprise Creek Falls was your typical outback campground – lots of dust, some yellow grass, a sprinkle of gum trees and Dunnies with a view (a drop loo with a small amount of corrugated iron around, literally just enough to cover you when sitting, but anyone could look over the top). Of course a swim was in order and the plunge pool provided just what we needed, it seemed as if the waters had hot springs running into them as it was lovely and warm. Initially we couldn’t see any falls, but with some rock climbing a couple more plunge pools were revealed with some simple yet beautiful falls separating them. We braved the climb to the top pool, splashing around in the water until all of a sudden the sky opened up and another downpour was upon us.  It was clear that this one was going to last longer than the last, so we picked our way back down the rocks to the lower pools before the rocks were too slippery. The swim here was cut short by a sudden encounter with a snake! Michael had just gone to grab hold of a ledge for a break when the snake leapt into the water - I swear I have never seen Michael or I swim so fast! We decided we had done enough swimming for the day and returned to camp. With this tropical weather the rain didn’t interfere with us at all and made for a nice cool evening.

One of the waterholes at surprise creek - the one we found the snake in.

As the sun rose we decided we needed one more swim to wake us up before our long drive to Kakadu. Once more the water was divine, and snake free an added bonus (at least we didn’t see any this time!) The rest of the 4x4 track saw us do a couple more creek crossings, go through some sandy patches and come out on the highway just near Daly Waters. We then spent the rest of the day tackling the long drive back to the southern end of Kakadu.  This time our eyes were set on Gunlom campground, complete with plunge pool, waterfall and upper pools. Along the way was a sneaky stop-off at Southern Rockhole, somewhere not on the maps that the caretaker at Gunamarr campground recommended. We were almost certain there were no crocs, but with no one else around and the shade limiting visibility, we were only brave enough to go for a quick dip at the edge (one at a time) before continuing on our way. Once again, the road into Gunlom was dirt, but the best spots around here always are. The road was in good condition up to the last kilometre or so, where large puddles and potholes had formed – apparently the rain the day before had been enough to soak the campground and access road, which meant the Hulk was once again rust-bucket red by the time we reached camp. We set up, and then decided we had time for a swim before dinner – starting to see a pattern?

Safe or not? surely the shallows were ok?

The short walk to the plunge pool was well worth the effort, with a huge swimming area you’re always going to find space to yourself (especially at the end of the tourist season when you are almost on your own). While working up our courage to hop in we watched numerous fish swimming in the shallows, we could point out some archer fish and catfish, but there was still 2 or 3 other species enjoying the warmth of the shallows that mystified us. Once we hopped in we made our usual decision to swim out to the waterfall before meandering back to the shore to chill out for a bit.

Gunlom lower pool.

We returned back to camp in time to see a rather large bush curlew stealing a packet of nuts from some backpackers, run extremely fast and then lay down in an interesting attempt to hide from the somewhat disgruntled tourists. You never know what you’ll see in outback Australia. We cooked up a feast that evening and got talking to the ranger who confirmed that Southern Rockhole should be croc free – there was a trap set down stream and it’s unlikely a croc has gotten in. Great reassurance, we’ll have to go for another dip there! We knew we had another big day planned for tomorrow, so decided to have an early bed after a smashing game of Skipbo. That evening the curlews sure wanted to announce their presence with their eerie screams haunting our surrounds for much of the night.

With the temperature sure to soar by the afternoon, we were lacing up our hiking boots and filling up the water bottles first thing in the morning.  We had an epic climb ahead. The upper falls at Gunlom were said to be one of the most beautiful places to visit in Kakadu, but you had to earn your swim. We climbed a staggering amount of what could loosely be titled ‘stairs’. We scaled rocks and twisted around trees. If we weren’t out of breath from the climb to the top, the view of the upper pools and surrounding valley finished us off. This place looked like it was straight out of a story book. We took several hundred photos hoping to capture that “infinity pool” look over the valley, then jumped in the pool to cool down, constantly looking back at the amazing vista.

Check out that vista!

After exploring the pools we initially had sighted we noticed some tracks and rocks that looked like they needed to be climbed. With a trail of small pools leading up through the rocks we had another little swimming adventure, easing our way through cracks in the rock walls to find more pools. At one stage we found ourselves almost surrounded by towering sandstone walls with a small waterfall dancing in front of us. Lacking some serious rock-climbing equipment, this was the end of the line for us, once more pleased with our exploration finds. We returned for one last swim in paradise and then descended the mighty mountain. The day had started to really heat up, so we packed up, went for a final swim in the plunge pool –one last swim and look around, this place will always be a special memory.

One of the hidden treasures we found.

We fired up the Hulk and returned via the rough red road to Southern Rockhole, arriving in time for lunch and once again had a quick dip here. Despite the tranquility and beauty of the area, there was still something about this place that meant we did not feel quite confident crossing the deep dark water to the waterfall. We swam in the shallows with the fish and then dried off on some of the rocks. Its weird how as soon as we were off the “tourist tracks” and all alone we were far less comfortable/confident than being all alone but at one of the main attractions…

Feeling quite cool and relaxed, we hit the road and headed south. It was too hard to resist the temptation of yet another place to swim in this heat, so we once again visited Umbrawarra Gorge, a quiet and cheap campground conveniently located along our route – except for the 15km of rocky road to get to the site – complete with a swimming area. We found the place completely empty and set up near a big fire place - camp oven casserole for dinner! With an hour or so to spare before we needed to play house we decided to have happy hour in the gorge, enjoying the sun, sand and cool water. We then headed back to the deserted campground to have an evening by the fire, enjoying casserole and damper.  What a way to end the day. 

Lesson of the week: There is no such thing as too much swimming! 

A Family Reunion in Darwin and Surrounds.

Michael and I returned to Darwin, eagerly awaiting the arrival of my parents who had decided Darwin (and of course visiting us) was a must do!  Unfortunately their flight didn’t arrive until some ungodly hour of the night/morning, however fortunately for us they had booked a room at the Novotel and we were able to book in and enjoy the luxury. We did feel a little awkward pulling up to such a  fancy hotel in boardies and singlets with the Hulk covered from top to tyre in dust, however all of that soon abated when we realised what  an awesome place we’d be staying in. The main foyer and subsequent atrium within were decorated in plants, water features and all things outdoors.  We excitedly explored the hotel and our room and declared the evening a date night, which absolutely called for a bottle of bubbles, being a Sunday and with grog laws up north not always catering for those on holidays this proved more difficult than we had imagined, however with Google, a GPS and some patience we eventually found ourselves enjoying a decadent happy hour of bubbles and cheese whilst overlooking Darwin’s esplanade. We then set off for the well renowned Mindil Beach Markets.

The  Hulk meeting the Novotel.

The markets provided a feast for not only our eyes but for our bellies as well! There were numerous food stalls and shops ranging from crafts to clothes and beyond, not to mention a jam packed evening of entertainers. Most notable was by far the fire show with a man performing all sorts of tricks and skits involving fire. There was also Emdee, a band comprised of a drummer with every drum imaginable - including pot lids, and a bloke playing 4 didgeridoos and using a repeater to create amazing beats whilst several locals showed off their dancing skills. We couldn’t believe that markets could be so entertaining. We then returned to the hotel, said goodbye to the Hulk and finished our bubbles whilst waiting for mum and dad to arrive. Eventually the day’s excitement took its toll, so it was bedtime, but the alarm was set for when the folks would arrive. It wasn’t long before we were once again sitting around the table playing catch ups and excitedly talking about what lay ahead, before heading off to sleep again.

For once we were not up with the sun, instead choosing to enjoy the comfort the hotel beds provided. The folks had hired a car for the day, considering that Brucie only has two and a half seats this proved to be a fantastic move! We drove around Darwin, the docks and the waterfront. We also made a stopover to buy a couple of leather hats, now mum and dad were fit to travel! That evening provided a decadent happy hour as we watched the sun slip over the horizon, followed by a delicious dinner at The Precinct down by the water. It was almost like being at home again, a feeling we hadn’t had in 5 months.

Darwin City from across the bay.

The next morning we meandered down to the waterfront at Doctors Gully where an old tradition has evolved into much more.  Starting in the 1960’s a local would throw bread into the water at high tide, now resulting in all manner of fish presenting themselves in the hope of bread at high tide each day. We stood in water up to our knees and threw bits of bread to the fish swarming round our legs. There was mullet, milkfish, batfish, catfish, a couple of barra, a groper and a few more things with gills and fins. The sheer volume of fish attending was unbelievable, but also made for a ridiculously fun time – especially the bat fish who would gulp at the water’s surface hoping for a crust.

Hungry Mullet and a gulping Bat Fish.

Dad and his 'small' group of fishies!

After an hour or so it was time to move on as today would be a busy day! We booked out of the Novotel, returned the hire car then picked up the pièce de résistance – a Maui motorhome! Thanks to the friendly staff (or maybe a vehicle shortage?) a massive upgrade found us in one of the best in the line-up, providing plenty of space. The plan was to convoy for the next few days, exposing the folks to our day to day ventures. Getting straight into the spirit of it, mum went straight to the freebie bin and had a ball! After the transfer of luggage and paperwork/intro it was time for a mad dash out to the Adelaide River, where we had booked a jumping croc cruise.

We literally just made it in time, barrelling down the corrugated driveway (noisy in the motorhome – ceramic plates, really?!?). We hopped on the boat and were immediately greeted by a friendly 2 metre croc. The folks were immediately impressed – “This is better than the Daintree Croc Cruise already!” (which had lacked the main attraction). Adelaide River Cruises ended up being a great choice (out of the 6+ companies), being a family run operation meant they were always close to the action and the guys were great. The weapon of choice was a ~20ft tinny with a small guard rail separating us from the beasts. Our host cruised up the river looking for a likely candidate – all of which he knows by name – before throwing a buffalo steak on the end of a pole to entice a crocodile into the air. These shows varied from an amazing jump from a 3 metre croc – the jump saw even her hind legs out of the water, to the show stopping Brutus – a 5+ metre alpha male whose monstrous leap had the boat shaking as his head landed on the top of the guard rail – right in front of our faces! It was amazing watching these ancient hunters at play, their sheer strength and agility is something to behold and not to mention be wary of!

Turns out crocs can really jump!

Brutus - A monster of a croc at around 5.5 metres!!

After about an hour all of the “big names” in the area had been fed, including Michael Jackson (a visiting male with a white patch on his head), and also a whistling kite and sea eagle (who caught bits of buffalo from the air/water) and thus spelt the end of this adventure. Time to hit the road and head to Berry Springs, with an ice-cream stop off on the way at Humpty Doo. Love that name. The Hot Springs at Berry Springs were just what the doctor ordered as the day was coming to an end. There was a large swimming area to hang around in for a while, and a quick jaunt upstream saw us at a fork in the creek, one being ice cold water, the other being a small waterfall where the warm water entered. The nearby van park proved a great first night for us; it had everything from hot showers and power through to a crocodile enclosure (as you do)! All in all not a bad stop over.

Playing under the hot waterfall at Berry Springs.

For the length of time we had with the folks Litchfield National Park promised to provide the best mix of things to do and time to do nothing, located close to Darwin but with plenty of attractions – namely swimming holes. We had some great little walkie talkies for the convoy which really helped in keeping us both on track, hearing “ten-four Rubber Ducky” several times a trip also provided a bit of a laugh (thanks dad). The first attraction on the road however was the amazing magnetic termite mounds – an entire field of 1-2 metre high mounds aligned in an east-west orientation. These little guys can’t survive the oppressive heat of the northern sun, and so have designed their homes with only a small area facing direct sunlight. A different species of termite have built cathedral mounds on the other side of the car-park, and have instead opted for sheer size for their homes – easily reaching the 5 metre mark. Turns out there are lots of different termites, not just the kind that eat houses.

A Cathedral Termite mound. 

Wangi Falls is the big name of the park, providing easy access to an excellent swimming hole throughout the dry season (as soon as those pesky people- own eating crocs are removed after the wet season deluge).The falls are absolutely spectacular, there was one raging to the right and a smaller fall to the left complete with a natural spa, only catch is you have to climb along a rocky ridge to get there. The waterhole itself is nothing to balk at either,  with a huge area full of clean, clear water to splash about in. We made sure we made it to the adjacent camping area by lunchtime – good thing as we wanted two spaces and the place fills up fast. The rest of the day involved lunch, swimming (including using some blow up floaties to frolic around) , snacking, watching the wild-life (wallabies, parrots and greater bower birds), happy hour, dinner, then a ranger talk and presentation on Litchfield, which proved to be great fun.

Wangi Falls.

Litchfield provides some great visitor information, with heaps of signs at the major attractions, however the ranger talks are something more altogether. The ranger had some great knowledge and stories of the area, including one about the agile wallabies who evolved with an erratic method of jumping from side to side to avoid predators such as eagles who cannot manoeuvre so quickly. This skill has become a downfall near the highways, where they will jump off the road just to hop back on again – not great for the front bumper. Also note, national parks do not condone hitting cane toads with golf clubs, however running them over is a-ok.

An Agile Wallaby and her joey.

The bird-call alarm clock had us up in the morning ready to explore more of the park. The 2 km walking track took us through the canopy and to the top of the Wangi Falls, then back down to the plunge pool for a refreshing dip. It was time to move on, and after a night without power it was time to plug the Maui in again, so we went and settled in at the Litchfield Safari Park, where it was an open slather to choose from the shady, grassy sites. We locked in our spots then all hopped in the motorhome to explore the northern reaches of the park. First stop was the old tin mine, which was an interesting stop over, where early miners struggled in the harsh climate to earn a living. It was amazing to learn about what these fellow’s went through.

The Hulk, My Folks and The Maui - getting ready for an adventure.

 Feeling as though we were drying out fast, we stopped in at Walker Creek for a beautiful swim, venturing up the river to find some deeper patches – again in beautiful crystal clear water. Thoughts of staying here for a night were put to rest when we found the camping was walk in only, varying from 200 metres to over 1km to cart in your stuff! You do however get some amazing seclusion and a waterfront site for yourself. That night we enjoyed some stunning steak cooked on the open fire, followed by a brilliant game of May-I that I have been craving for a long time. Sure I didn’t win, but there was always next time!!

Walker Creek.

Day 3 in the park started off with some sightseeing, going to have a look at Tolmer Falls, tabletop  Swamp. The falls provided a great view of the surrounding valley, however lacked the swimming area due to protection of the native bats, which was a good enough excuse for us considering the climb that would be involved. We continued on, knowing our next swim would not be far away. Once again we were staying in a national park campground, this time at Florence Falls, so went there to leave our camper to reserve a spot while we ventured off in the motorhome – good thing too as there wasn’t an endless supply of sites. Buley Rockhole was just back down the road and is a stunning spot for a swim, we met a few people who had ventured from Darwin for the day mainly for this piece of luxury. The number of rockholes along the river/falls meant that although there was quite a few people there, you could easily have a pool to yourself and feel like you were all alone. After testing out a number of the pools, it was time for a feed, so we moved on to Florence Falls where we had a quick lunch in the car park before venturing to the falls.

Florence Falls - what a sight and swimming hole!

The walk in to Florence Falls was not too bad, except for the daunting thought of having to walk back up the 165 step staircase. The view from the top was great, providing a complete picture of the falls, however it was at the base of the pools we had the most fun – the floaties were back out and we were loving it in the water. This was yet another spot of paradise, with clear water and absolutely picturesque waterfalls. Although busy on the banks, it was easy to find a spot to yourself to float around or sit/stand on some of the submerged rocks. Some other tourists ended up finding out just how much the fish in the water like Burger Rings, to the point of about 50 fish were swarming around them, some as big as 20cm eating out of their hands.

Me and my precious floatie!!

That evening we got a cooking fire going – it was a camp oven casserole night! We saw an eagle hanging out nearby and decided to throw some scraps his way and he caught it mid-air. He continued to do this a few more times before heading for the sky. We enjoyed our last night out bush together with some damper, fresh air and the bush sounds – tomorrow we were headed back to civilisation.

The call of Buley Rockhole was too much to ignore on the way out in the morning, so in we jumped again, spending another hour or so in the water relishing the cool waters and beautiful landscape. Howard Springs was our next attraction on the road back to town, which ended up proving our last swim at Buley was a good move – it was the weekend, we were now close to Darwin, and this place was more man-made than natural. Still, it provided some great shade for lunch, and a large pond with heaps of wildlife. We took down some leftover ham and were delighted to be feeding several turtles of variable size and three big barramundi.

Feeding some turtles.

The bush was now done, swapping the Maui back for the hire car to hit the “big smoke” (relatively speaking). We booked back in to the Novotel, and with proof that mum had been overcharged last week we received a stunning price for a waterfront view as a token of good will. We eased back into modern day living, with a hot shower and a couch and some TV. We started happy hour in the room, but I was hanging out for some $8 cocktails that were advertised so moved down to the atrium, then eventually returned to the room’s balcony to watch a beautiful sunset from 4 stories up. We frocked up, had dinner at the hotel restaurant and ordered another cocktail to wash it all down – I love this place. Not feeling decadent enough, we finished the night off with strawberry ice-cream, Rolo and Kit Kat – “Cold Rock” style. Did I mention how awesome it is to have a family holiday from your holiday?

View from the balcony!

Dad and Michael getting back to the mainstream.

My gorgeous Mum and I enjoying delicious cocktails!!!

With flights booked for 3 in the afternoon, and the Novotel providing late checkout, we started the morning off slowly. Once we were all presentable we decided to head to Nightcliff for the Sunday markets, where all sorts of bits and pieces were on display. Mum had the best haul for the day but regardless we all had some fun. Back at the hotel everything got packed back into bags that came half empty but were now splitting at the seams, and it was time to check out. One last stop-off – lunch at the bar (sadly minus the cocktails). We said our farewells and watched as mum and dad drove back to the airport, our epic week together at an end.

Lesson of the Week: Always make time for family (especially if it’s at the Novotel <(^_^)>) !!!

Kakadu National Park

With a week before we had to be back in Darwin we saw it as the best opportunity to explore Mary River and Kakadu National Parks. With a couple of odd jobs (including installing a new winch after the old one died in W.A. we decided to upgrade to one that would actually do the job – hello Ironman winch) and plenty of things see and do, we were on our way and made it to Mary River Billabong just in time for the ever important happy hour. Although not technically a campsite it was too late to keep going and with the backdrop we had we decided that we were quite happy to spend the night.

We found these ants on one of the 4x4 tracks, we later learnt that they're delicious and can be used to make lemonade!

The next morning we crossed the river and headed east. We ventured down to Annaburroo Billabong. We had seen signs advertising that it was a swimming spot and thought we’d pull up there for a picnic, turns out its actually a station stay/camping park but the owners had decided it wasn’t viable so they had closed up shop. We ended up talking to the owner who said we were welcome to stay for a swim and a picnic as we seemed like a nice couple – we jumped at the chance considering how hot it already was and that she had promised the billabong was croc free.

The Mary River from Couzen's Lookout.

Over the next few days we proceeded to explore more of Mary River National Park, including a stay at Couzen’s Lookout and Shady Camp. We were eager to see crocs as we had found out that Mary River has the highest population of crocs measuring over 4m in the world. However, given a local had been killed by a rather large saltie the week before, we didn’t want to get too close! Couzen’s Lookout provided some water access, the main appeal however was being able to set up early, find some shade and install the winch and throw a lure in the Mary River. Shady Camp lived up to its name with some massive trees that engulfed the Hulk in shade once we parked beneath. We welcomed the coastal breeze after a 40 km 4x4 track that took us past billabongs, lagoons, light scrub, thick forest and wildlife in abounds – still no crocs though. Located next to Shady Camp is a barrage that stops saltwater from entering the fresh water system that is popular among anglers on the hunt for Barra. We spotted several crocs eyeing off hopefully the fish and not the fishermen. It was a little off putting only seeing croc eyes and snout emerged from the water, however still pretty cool to see some salties in the wild. We also got a bit of a show, as some blokes tried to launch their boat at low tide, resulting in a beached boat until they eventually decided it wasn’t worth it. Good choice after watching one of the fellows wading in the water for a while and the aforementioned crocs.

Some of the animals found around camp - above a cute roo family, below a watchful croc.

We left The Mary in search of Kakadu. That day we only made it as far as 2 Mile Hole, a great freebie on the Wildman River. We spent the day relaxing and fishing, though the only thing we caught was a lure that somehow Michael managed to hook. We had a glorious campfire and the next day ventured further into Kakadu. Our first stop off was Mamukala, a lagoon where we saw hundreds of ducks and other waterbirds all congregating here as the smaller waterholes in the area were drying up fast.

The Bowali Visitor Centre is a great attraction in the park, with loads of local information, interactive displays and free video of the park. Living in Alice Springs also managed to save us 50 bucks – go Territory Discounts! We had lunch at Jabiru (the only township in Kakadu), where you know you’re rural when there is a dingo in the local park. Ubirr was our destination for the night, so we quickly ducked into Merl campground to do a loop and pick a site before driving up to the Ubirr lookout for sunset. We joined the masses climbing up a huge natural rocky outcrop, passing many ancient aboriginal art works. When we reached the top we were blown away by the view of the surrounding wetlands and sat down to watch the show. Once the sun had set we didn’t dawdle as we had been told by the ranger that on dark millions of mosquitoes would flood the area.  Luckily we made it back to the Hulk without a bite, and in no time at all resettled at Merl, had tea and showers and another glorious day was done.

What a view - at Ubirr!

Cahills Crossing is the causeway over the East Alligator River that provides access to Arnhem Land (sadly not on the agenda for this trip – just another reason for a next time). At this time of year the river is little more than a trickle over the causeway, however come high tide the tidal waters flow upstream enough for the fish to start visibly migrating across the causeway thus producing an excellent buffet for the crocs. We only expected to see a couple of crocs, but there was easily 10 adult crocodiles there with a couple measuring over 4 meters! We watched on in awe as these prehistoric beings dined on the fish coming their way; we also saw a couple of crocs cross the causeway – absolutely well worth the stop!  

One of the crocs sliding off the crossing.

Once more we had lunch in Jabiru and then headed to Malabanjbanjdju (say that three times! – in fact say it once!) campground for a relaxing evening. We met a German backpacker there who was waiting for the fruit picking season to begin and found the cheapest camp he could. He had several interesting things to say, but the one that stands out was that he was under the belief that when a backpacker hops off a plane the government delegates them three flies that will stay with you for the rest of the trip – I’m wondering if there was some truth to this, potentially if you’re an Aussie you get dished out 5, I reckon we’ve had the same ones following us for a loooong time! Anyway we lit the fire and watched as other backpackers pulled up nigh on dark. Always fun to watch others set up.

Then next morning we found ourselves letting the tyres down anticipating the track to Jim Jim Falls. To get to the campground involved once more shaking and rattling along a 55 kms unsealed and very unmaintained dirt road. Needless to say, the Hulk made it in one piece however a few of its innards had bounced around. The camp ground had plenty of green grass, fire places and even had solar showers, so we were more than happy to spend the night. We popped down some chairs to reserve our spot then decided it was time to tackle the 4x4 track into Jim Jim. We were worried that this road would be more corrugations though we were pleasantly surprised that for once 4x4 meant 4x4! Huzzah! Although only 15kms or so the track took us 45 minutes to complete, with a couple of water crossings and even a spot that called for low range with all 4 tyres not always planted firmly on the ground. After that wicked drive it was time to do the walk into Jim Jim Falls. I use the word walk loosely as although the first part of the journey is a semi formed path the second half involved rock jumping, scrambling and  following an occasional sign that pointed us in a general direction “that way”. We were ridiculously thankful that at the end we were greeted with wonderful white sands and a cold pool that was croc free and calling for us. We swam in the clear and refreshing waters of the beach pool, following a small alleyway that lead us to the main plunge pool. The waters of the second pool were icy cold so we jumped in and out more to say we’d been there and done that, then hurried back to the other pool before hypothermia set in. We were aware that it was late in the season so the falls weren’t so much falling as trickling, but that didn’t matter – this place was beautiful and well worth the walk/scramble/jumping to get in. Leaving the place was another matter, it was hard to find the energy and want to leave the falls and return to the Hulk in the heat of the day. Somehow we eventually got there and returned via the fun 4x4 track to the campground. That night we ate potentially one of the best camp oven casseroles we’d had all trip (maybe we’d just worked up more of an appetite). We sat around the fire and talked to the ranger when she came around, buying tickets for the boat ride into Twin Falls and discussing numerous cases of drowned cars that were not capable of crossing the river to the falls, and also got the inside scoop on a secret campsite and waterfall in Kakadu that’s not on the map – You Beauty!

Only 3 tyres are touching!

The road to Twin Falls was the same as Jim Jim, however with an extra 10 km added on for good measure. There were a few sandy patches before we found the fun part – a 60 cm deep river crossing, the highest we’ve ever done. From there it was not far to the car park, then a quick dash to the banks (to beat a busload of tourists) and we were on the boat headed for the falls. The cruise in felt like we were entering Jurassic Park, the natural formations around us were ancient and untouched, full of mystery. The fellow taking us in was local and had many fascinating stories to tell, he also mentioned that no one can swim at the falls anymore as crocodiles can now get in. We moored on a bank and were told to radio in when we were ready to return. We then walked through several layers of the gorge (stopping at a specific waterfall to drink - the fellow told us that it was healing water so why not!). We saw several fish and once again Michael found a bridge, this time a floating one, to test the structural integrity of.  At the end the walls of the gorge opened up to a magnificent pool with several small waterfalls flowing into it, you could tell that in the wet season this place would be something to behold. We explored around and had morning tea, the massive crocodile trap was interesting to look at, but served as a gentle reminder of what could be lurking in the waters. Eventually we meandered back to the bank and radioed in, leaving with the same feeling we had approached with, a sense of wonderment of Mother Nature. We drove the same way we had come, had lunch in a shady picnic area by the river and helped some backpackers in a Wicked rental 4x4 thoroughly bogged in the sand. We had a feeling they weren’t quite sure what to do so decided to lend a hand. Turns out we were right as the tyres were still at highway pressure, 4wd was not engaged and they didn’t know how to get out. We gave them a quick 4x4 lesson, appalled that Wicked had told them they would not need the 4x4 gears, then help them escape the sand.  With the heat of the day upon us, we stopped in at camp for a quick shower then enjoyed the nonsensically corrugated road out of camp.

Going into Twin Falls

A croc trap - a gentle reminder not to swim at the falls...

We stayed the night at Jim Jim Billabong, putting us in prime position to see Yellow Water Billabong in the morning then head out to Old Jim Jim Road to begin our journey back to Darwin. It’s always the dirt roads that produce the fun and exciting things, and knowing that the car can handle makes it all worthwhile. We stopped briefly by the West Alligator River for a snack then followed a 4x4 track north towards some camp grounds. The track was superb, leading us past several billabongs overflowing with life. We saw Jabirus and Brolgas and countless other birds, we travelled past savannah lands and through forests and burning bushes and most notably on a road that wasn’t corrugated but did require some thought and skill. Eventually it was time for a break, we had made it to the first camp, Alligator Billabong, and decided to settle for lunch and a spot of fishing. After several casts Michael managed to reel in a fish that had some serious strength behind it, turns out it was a beautiful Barramundi! Sadly, at ½ metre long he was still slightly undersize, and after some pics it was time to send him home – great experience.

Dinner! If only?!

We stayed the night at Red Lily Billabong, a secluded campsite on the banks of the river. We camped 15 metres or so away, aware that there might be crocs lurking however none were spotted all afternoon. In the evening my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to take a torch to the water to see if any beast were lurking nearby. The amount of croc eyes staring back at me were alarming and a nearby fish jumping out of the water was enough to send me running to the safety of the camper. This continued in the morning when we were carrying out our morning rituals and there was a rather large croc head across the water. Michael said that it was rather cool to see one however he’d like one closer to get a better picture, and lo and behold one popped up on our side of the bank 10 metres away from where we were standing. We backed back, took a few photos and were once again flabbergasted by these massive creatures. We got the binoculars out and ended up spotting several other crocodiles lurking around the river. By that time we’d had our excitement for the morning and decided it was time to go!

The sneaky croc on our side of the bank.

We followed the 4x4 track, eventually exiting Kakadu and then once more re-entered the Mary River NP for a spot to sleep. We found a “camp site” by a river with some green grass and plenty of wildlife around and decided to call it an evening, ready to return to Darwin the next day.

Roos near our campsite, we decided the three at the front were the three amigos 

Looking back I think that Kakadu was every bit as wonderful as described, with wildlife and water in abundance. Despite one person along the way calling the park Kaka-don’t, it was well worth the trip and once again we found that venturing off the tar and talking to people heralded us the most amazing experiences.

Lesson of the week:  Just ‘cos you can’t see it, don’t mean it ain’t there!

The Top End

 With a few days up our sleeves to go between Katherine and Darwin, our first stop on the way north was Umbrawarra Gorge. On the road in was Copperfield Dam, this used to be a caravan park but is now just a nice grassy rest area overlooking a large expanse of water. We were sorely tempted to hop in, however didn’t know whether it was safe to (supposedly is, but still not sure if we would swim there) and was sure the gorge down the road would satisfy us aplenty.

Umbrawarra Gorge is about 25 km off the highway, most of which is corrugated dirt with some washouts/dry creeks. This at least meant it was quiet - there were only three cars there when we pulled up. The walk in was easy enough, starting off well-formed but with a bit of rock hopping as the water came into sight. We had a great swim and explored upstream a bit, but the large boulders on ungainly angles made this tricky and we only went so far before we returned to the main swimming area; you could easily go for ages though.

The pool we spent happy hour in at Umbrawarra Gorge.

With the day progressing and both the beauty and quiet of the place, we decided we would stay the night at the campground. At $3.30 per person we weren’t going to complain, and within no time had camp set up and plans to head back to the water for happy hour. This time we had the whole gorge to ourselves. With a camp oven meal planned, we started up the fire and got the coals red hot, producing a stunning lamb casserole that would be feeding us for the next few days.

The morning started early as we watched the sun rise in bed, with a slight chill in the air from the night before. We were quickly on the road, feeling it better to explore new places than enjoy the beauty of Umbrawarra Gorge yet again. We ventured out to Pine Creek where we spent a little time making contact with the outside world, and checked out some history from the area – some dating back over a hundred years. This area used to be a goldfield, with a super old open cut mine that has now been filled with 135 metres of beautiful, fresh water. The train line from Darwin to Adelaide (via Alice Springs!) eventually wound its way through the town (sounded like there was heaps of issues finalising the deal and making the northern and southern ends finally connect), and also houses the oldest restored train engine in Australia. This old trooper started life in 1877 in England before being put to pasture in 1945.

Thomas has nothing on this old beauty!

With plans to reach more water, we headed north along the highway for a little while, seeing a dump truck on the back of a semi trailer (luckily pulled over for pies, it would have been twice as wide as a standard car), and a quick glimpse of an old 1910’s car on a trailer (there is a Show’n’Shine on in Katherine on Sunday, sadly we just missed it). The rest of the road was pretty boring, until we made it to our turnoff. This led us past the old Fenton Airfield and Base Camp, from when troops were stationed here in WWII. It was great to drive through the old camp and get some information and wonder about the hardships here in both the wet and dry season. There were only a few bits of rusted metal left, however most of the cement foundations were still near perfect. As the info sign stated, white ants quickly wreaked havoc with the old timber floorboards, so as payback the men crushed down the termite mounds and made what seems like very structurally sound concrete.

Although that was fun, our main hope was to go to the airfield and have a look for some old plane wrecks. This was not to be, however, as all the gates in were padlocked – we might try and find another way in tomorrow…

Our aim for the day was to reach Butterfly Gorge, and after travelling a bit further down the road and along some gravel, we made it as far as the campsite at Douglas Hot Springs NP. We had a quick look around, a quick chat to the American couple we met several times along the Gibb then it was time to hit up the 4x4 track into the gorge. We aired down the tyres to give us some extra suspension then proceeded on. I made Michael take the chicken track right at the start, feeling it unwise to get stuck in what looked more like a river than the actual track. Michael pretended to be disappointed, but continued on anyway and we enjoyed the rest of the drive in, with a couple of small creek crossings, some good wheel placement and once again a lot of corrugations (the dash has a few more rattles than it did a couple of months back…). We welcomed the sight of a couple of fourbies parked up, including another one that we recognised at the couple with the flat tyre at Galvan’s Gorge (also from the Gibb), as it meant we were at our destination. It was time for a quick lunch then get ready to go in.

Just as we had everything packed up and ready to go, the couple from Galvans came out and had a quick chat, telling us where to go to get some peace and quiet (and a great view/swimming hole) and that we were well over prepared as we had to swim to get there! This was sounding to be a great adventure and we got straight into it. The walk in was simple enough (didn’t need the hiking shoes, oh well), then we ditched the shoes and backpacks at the first pool of water – a deep river crossing, and packed light to continue on. The main pool was gorgeous, with a nice white beach surrounded by green palms and gums on two sides, the river on the third, and a huge rock wall with a gap down the middle right in front of us. That gap was our destination, leading up to the upper pools. We had a quick swim over, then were greeted by a slim, slippery gorge that we had to work our way firstly out of the water, then over a boulder caught in the middle, then slide our way back into the water on the other side. The pleasure of making it past that first obstacle was great but short-lived, as we were faced with smooth walls on three sides, and one section where the water enters this pool that looked like we had a chance. Michael got through easy enough (damn long arms and legs), however being somewhat shorter in limb, those hand and footholds were slightly out of reach for me. This was only a setback though, as we eventually worked out how to get up and we made it to the next pool. This one was only shallow (we couldn’t touch the bottom in the last two) but the small waterfall was great fun to stand under. This area was once again beautiful, however we were on a mission and wanted to get to where the beauty was either going to blow us away, or slowly peter out and we could then choose where to hang out. I managed to somehow fall into the shallowest pool and land on my butt and jar my wrist and shoulder – not great with the rock climbing we were about to do.

Swimming into Butterfly Gorge.

We gingerly walked up the super smooth rocks and made our way to another large pool with deep walls on either side. At the far end was once again a rock obstacle that once again long-limbed Michael made it up, but that I was dragged up by my (jarred) arm. Ouch but worth it. This top pool was beautiful and warm, and we sat around for a little while, played slippery-dips on the super smooth and moss covered rocks, chatted to another couple we ventured up with, then began our descent back down. Knowing how the rocks dropped off at each of the waterfalls we had climbed up made it much easier to descend – jump! After a while we were back at the river crossing, not wanting to get out because of the warmth of the water, but the allure of a nearby campsite, chats with the neighbours, and of course beer o’clock we hopped out, dried off, walked back (barefoot) and were back on the track in no time.

One of the many pools we climbed/swam through.

The rest of the afternoon was spent chatting away with the two couples we met on the Gibb, swapping stories, trip plans, food and drink. Leslie and Allan (from Galvans Gorge) made an offer we couldn’t refuse and so we spent the evening there eating a wonderful dinner and chatting through the night. I think we ended up staying up later than the young Darwin locals who had their music blaring from the car so the whole camp could hear. Eventually the cold got to be too much and we called it a night and went to bed.

The next day’s plans were all but non-existent, composed mainly of going for a swim in the thermal pools and possibly go a bit closer to Darwin in preparation for Michael to fly to Sydney on Wednesday. By mid-morning it was obvious we were staying put – what’s the point of saving an hour the next day if it means leaving paradise to stay in a rest area. So we lazed about, had some more chats and exchanged details and watched the campground slowly empty around us. A few odd jobs later, another swim and a bit of a walk and the day was done.

The next morning we rose with a purpose, by the end of the day we would be in Darwin! We packed up and farewelled the Springs and hit the road north. It was still only mid-morning but we decided our first stop was the pub! The pub at Adelaide River has been home to Charlie the Buffalo for the last 50 odd years, made famous by the film Crocodile Dundee. Once upon a time this big fella was the family pet, then when he got famous he hung around giving kids rides. Now he just stands around on the bar – dead, stuffed and mounted.

Charlie - still going strong but I think his joints have seized...

We found our way into the outskirts of town and started seeing dual lane roads for the first time since Perth. First stop was Casuarina, home to a Westfields and therefore more shops than you can poke a stick at. We needed to shop around for a suit for Michael’s interview, and luckily the first one we went to came up with the goods. We wandered around the rest of the shops for a little while before venturing into the CBD. This ended up being a breeze, and we had found a car park in no time and looked around. With elections coming up, we also managed to fill in an away vote, and was sooo easy, with almost no hecklers trying to show you “how to vote” and no line whatsoever, we were in and out in no time. With Michael flying out the next day and me holding down the fort, the best move was to book into a van park, opting for Oasis on the outskirts of town.

I spent the next few days doing odd jobs, trying to cool down in the pool and experimenting with different ways to make cake in the camp kitchen - mugs and microwaves=success! The days flew by and before I knew it I was back at the airport picking Michael back up. He made it through to the final nine (from +500) but didn’t get the job, but at least got to go home for a night and say hi to his folks – so jealous, I might just have to meet mine in Darwin ;)

Lesson of the Week: Good deeds are great for the karma kitty, but can also bring you beer and chippies – lend a hand whenever you can.