Monday 16 September 2013

A Family Reunion in Darwin and Surrounds.

Michael and I returned to Darwin, eagerly awaiting the arrival of my parents who had decided Darwin (and of course visiting us) was a must do!  Unfortunately their flight didn’t arrive until some ungodly hour of the night/morning, however fortunately for us they had booked a room at the Novotel and we were able to book in and enjoy the luxury. We did feel a little awkward pulling up to such a  fancy hotel in boardies and singlets with the Hulk covered from top to tyre in dust, however all of that soon abated when we realised what  an awesome place we’d be staying in. The main foyer and subsequent atrium within were decorated in plants, water features and all things outdoors.  We excitedly explored the hotel and our room and declared the evening a date night, which absolutely called for a bottle of bubbles, being a Sunday and with grog laws up north not always catering for those on holidays this proved more difficult than we had imagined, however with Google, a GPS and some patience we eventually found ourselves enjoying a decadent happy hour of bubbles and cheese whilst overlooking Darwin’s esplanade. We then set off for the well renowned Mindil Beach Markets.

The  Hulk meeting the Novotel.
The markets provided a feast for not only our eyes but for our bellies as well! There were numerous food stalls and shops ranging from crafts to clothes and beyond, not to mention a jam packed evening of entertainers. Most notable was by far the fire show with a man performing all sorts of tricks and skits involving fire. There was also Emdee, a band comprised of a drummer with every drum imaginable - including pot lids, and a bloke playing 4 didgeridoos and using a repeater to create amazing beats whilst several locals showed off their dancing skills. We couldn’t believe that markets could be so entertaining. We then returned to the hotel, said goodbye to the Hulk and finished our bubbles whilst waiting for mum and dad to arrive. Eventually the day’s excitement took its toll, so it was bedtime, but the alarm was set for when the folks would arrive. It wasn’t long before we were once again sitting around the table playing catch ups and excitedly talking about what lay ahead, before heading off to sleep again.

For once we were not up with the sun, instead choosing to enjoy the comfort the hotel beds provided. The folks had hired a car for the day, considering that Brucie only has two and a half seats this proved to be a fantastic move! We drove around Darwin, the docks and the waterfront. We also made a stopover to buy a couple of leather hats, now mum and dad were fit to travel! That evening provided a decadent happy hour as we watched the sun slip over the horizon, followed by a delicious dinner at The Precinct down by the water. It was almost like being at home again, a feeling we hadn’t had in 5 months.

Darwin City from across the bay.

The next morning we meandered down to the waterfront at Doctors Gully where an old tradition has evolved into much more.  Starting in the 1960’s a local would throw bread into the water at high tide, now resulting in all manner of fish presenting themselves in the hope of bread at high tide each day. We stood in water up to our knees and threw bits of bread to the fish swarming round our legs. There was mullet, milkfish, batfish, catfish, a couple of barra, a groper and a few more things with gills and fins. The sheer volume of fish attending was unbelievable, but also made for a ridiculously fun time – especially the bat fish who would gulp at the water’s surface hoping for a crust.

Hungry Mullet and a gulping Bat Fish.

Dad and his 'small' group of fishies!
After an hour or so it was time to move on as today would be a busy day! We booked out of the Novotel, returned the hire car then picked up the pièce de résistance – a Maui motorhome! Thanks to the friendly staff (or maybe a vehicle shortage?) a massive upgrade found us in one of the best in the line-up, providing plenty of space. The plan was to convoy for the next few days, exposing the folks to our day to day ventures. Getting straight into the spirit of it, mum went straight to the freebie bin and had a ball! After the transfer of luggage and paperwork/intro it was time for a mad dash out to the Adelaide River, where we had booked a jumping croc cruise.

We literally just made it in time, barrelling down the corrugated driveway (noisy in the motorhome – ceramic plates, really?!?). We hopped on the boat and were immediately greeted by a friendly 2 metre croc. The folks were immediately impressed – “This is better than the Daintree Croc Cruise already!” (which had lacked the main attraction). Adelaide River Cruises ended up being a great choice (out of the 6+ companies), being a family run operation meant they were always close to the action and the guys were great. The weapon of choice was a ~20ft tinny with a small guard rail separating us from the beasts. Our host cruised up the river looking for a likely candidate – all of which he knows by name – before throwing a buffalo steak on the end of a pole to entice a crocodile into the air. These shows varied from an amazing jump from a 3 metre croc – the jump saw even her hind legs out of the water, to the show stopping Brutus – a 5+ metre alpha male whose monstrous leap had the boat shaking as his head landed on the top of the guard rail – right in front of our faces! It was amazing watching these ancient hunters at play, their sheer strength and agility is something to behold and not to mention be wary of!

Turns out crocs can really jump!


Brutus - A monster of a croc at around 5.5 metres!!
After about an hour all of the “big names” in the area had been fed, including Michael Jackson (a visiting male with a white patch on his head), and also a whistling kite and sea eagle (who caught bits of buffalo from the air/water) and thus spelt the end of this adventure. Time to hit the road and head to Berry Springs, with an ice-cream stop off on the way at Humpty Doo. Love that name. The Hot Springs at Berry Springs were just what the doctor ordered as the day was coming to an end. There was a large swimming area to hang around in for a while, and a quick jaunt upstream saw us at a fork in the creek, one being ice cold water, the other being a small waterfall where the warm water entered. The nearby van park proved a great first night for us; it had everything from hot showers and power through to a crocodile enclosure (as you do)! All in all not a bad stop over.

Playing under the hot waterfall at Berry Springs.



For the length of time we had with the folks Litchfield National Park promised to provide the best mix of things to do and time to do nothing, located close to Darwin but with plenty of attractions – namely swimming holes. We had some great little walkie talkies for the convoy which really helped in keeping us both on track, hearing “ten-four Rubber Ducky” several times a trip also provided a bit of a laugh (thanks dad). The first attraction on the road however was the amazing magnetic termite mounds – an entire field of 1-2 metre high mounds aligned in an east-west orientation. These little guys can’t survive the oppressive heat of the northern sun, and so have designed their homes with only a small area facing direct sunlight. A different species of termite have built cathedral mounds on the other side of the car-park, and have instead opted for sheer size for their homes – easily reaching the 5 metre mark. Turns out there are lots of different termites, not just the kind that eat houses.

A Cathedral Termite mound. 
Wangi Falls is the big name of the park, providing easy access to an excellent swimming hole throughout the dry season (as soon as those pesky people- own eating crocs are removed after the wet season deluge).The falls are absolutely spectacular, there was one raging to the right and a smaller fall to the left complete with a natural spa, only catch is you have to climb along a rocky ridge to get there. The waterhole itself is nothing to balk at either,  with a huge area full of clean, clear water to splash about in. We made sure we made it to the adjacent camping area by lunchtime – good thing as we wanted two spaces and the place fills up fast. The rest of the day involved lunch, swimming (including using some blow up floaties to frolic around) , snacking, watching the wild-life (wallabies, parrots and greater bower birds), happy hour, dinner, then a ranger talk and presentation on Litchfield, which proved to be great fun.

Wangi Falls.
Litchfield provides some great visitor information, with heaps of signs at the major attractions, however the ranger talks are something more altogether. The ranger had some great knowledge and stories of the area, including one about the agile wallabies who evolved with an erratic method of jumping from side to side to avoid predators such as eagles who cannot manoeuvre so quickly. This skill has become a downfall near the highways, where they will jump off the road just to hop back on again – not great for the front bumper. Also note, national parks do not condone hitting cane toads with golf clubs, however running them over is a-ok.

An Agile Wallaby and her joey.
The bird-call alarm clock had us up in the morning ready to explore more of the park. The 2 km walking track took us through the canopy and to the top of the Wangi Falls, then back down to the plunge pool for a refreshing dip. It was time to move on, and after a night without power it was time to plug the Maui in again, so we went and settled in at the Litchfield Safari Park, where it was an open slather to choose from the shady, grassy sites. We locked in our spots then all hopped in the motorhome to explore the northern reaches of the park. First stop was the old tin mine, which was an interesting stop over, where early miners struggled in the harsh climate to earn a living. It was amazing to learn about what these fellow’s went through.

The Hulk, My Folks and The Maui - getting ready for an adventure.
 Feeling as though we were drying out fast, we stopped in at Walker Creek for a beautiful swim, venturing up the river to find some deeper patches – again in beautiful crystal clear water. Thoughts of staying here for a night were put to rest when we found the camping was walk in only, varying from 200 metres to over 1km to cart in your stuff! You do however get some amazing seclusion and a waterfront site for yourself. That night we enjoyed some stunning steak cooked on the open fire, followed by a brilliant game of May-I that I have been craving for a long time. Sure I didn’t win, but there was always next time!!

Walker Creek.
Day 3 in the park started off with some sightseeing, going to have a look at Tolmer Falls, tabletop  Swamp. The falls provided a great view of the surrounding valley, however lacked the swimming area due to protection of the native bats, which was a good enough excuse for us considering the climb that would be involved. We continued on, knowing our next swim would not be far away. Once again we were staying in a national park campground, this time at Florence Falls, so went there to leave our camper to reserve a spot while we ventured off in the motorhome – good thing too as there wasn’t an endless supply of sites. Buley Rockhole was just back down the road and is a stunning spot for a swim, we met a few people who had ventured from Darwin for the day mainly for this piece of luxury. The number of rockholes along the river/falls meant that although there was quite a few people there, you could easily have a pool to yourself and feel like you were all alone. After testing out a number of the pools, it was time for a feed, so we moved on to Florence Falls where we had a quick lunch in the car park before venturing to the falls.

Florence Falls - what a sight and swimming hole!
The walk in to Florence Falls was not too bad, except for the daunting thought of having to walk back up the 165 step staircase. The view from the top was great, providing a complete picture of the falls, however it was at the base of the pools we had the most fun – the floaties were back out and we were loving it in the water. This was yet another spot of paradise, with clear water and absolutely picturesque waterfalls. Although busy on the banks, it was easy to find a spot to yourself to float around or sit/stand on some of the submerged rocks. Some other tourists ended up finding out just how much the fish in the water like Burger Rings, to the point of about 50 fish were swarming around them, some as big as 20cm eating out of their hands.

Me and my precious floatie!!
That evening we got a cooking fire going – it was a camp oven casserole night! We saw an eagle hanging out nearby and decided to throw some scraps his way and he caught it mid-air. He continued to do this a few more times before heading for the sky. We enjoyed our last night out bush together with some damper, fresh air and the bush sounds – tomorrow we were headed back to civilisation.

The call of Buley Rockhole was too much to ignore on the way out in the morning, so in we jumped again, spending another hour or so in the water relishing the cool waters and beautiful landscape. Howard Springs was our next attraction on the road back to town, which ended up proving our last swim at Buley was a good move – it was the weekend, we were now close to Darwin, and this place was more man-made than natural. Still, it provided some great shade for lunch, and a large pond with heaps of wildlife. We took down some leftover ham and were delighted to be feeding several turtles of variable size and three big barramundi.

Feeding some turtles.
The bush was now done, swapping the Maui back for the hire car to hit the “big smoke” (relatively speaking). We booked back in to the Novotel, and with proof that mum had been overcharged last week we received a stunning price for a waterfront view as a token of good will. We eased back into modern day living, with a hot shower and a couch and some TV. We started happy hour in the room, but I was hanging out for some $8 cocktails that were advertised so moved down to the atrium, then eventually returned to the room’s balcony to watch a beautiful sunset from 4 stories up. We frocked up, had dinner at the hotel restaurant and ordered another cocktail to wash it all down – I love this place. Not feeling decadent enough, we finished the night off with strawberry ice-cream, Rolo and Kit Kat – “Cold Rock” style. Did I mention how awesome it is to have a family holiday from your holiday?

View from the balcony!

Dad and Michael getting back to the mainstream.

My gorgeous Mum and I enjoying delicious cocktails!!!
With flights booked for 3 in the afternoon, and the Novotel providing late checkout, we started the morning off slowly. Once we were all presentable we decided to head to Nightcliff for the Sunday markets, where all sorts of bits and pieces were on display. Mum had the best haul for the day but regardless we all had some fun. Back at the hotel everything got packed back into bags that came half empty but were now splitting at the seams, and it was time to check out. One last stop-off – lunch at the bar (sadly minus the cocktails). We said our farewells and watched as mum and dad drove back to the airport, our epic week together at an end.



Lesson of the Week: Always make time for family (especially if it’s at the Novotel <(^_^)>) !!!

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