The Pilbara - Part one

In no hurry to leave Exmouth we dawdled out of the van park and made our way to Charles-Knife Lookout, a great vantage point to farewell the town. After a steep climb (read slow) we were rewarded with an amazing view of the coast each side of Exmouth, as well as the stunning gorges to the sides of the lookout. We once again enjoyed some scones, jam and cream – decadent I know – and then ambled back down the hill and onto the main road. We stopped briefly at Learmonth Jetty; a jetty is the middle of nowhere, for lunch and to repair a ‘no-camping’ sign. Then we hit the highway and travelled some 350kms to House Creek Rest Area with very little to see in between (Michael saw a guy walking a goat – the highlight of this road).  Though there was no creek in sight there was a rather bunged up fourby that had hit a donkey that morning (a testament to Toyota that it was still running).  

Charles-Knife Gorge

The next morning we continued our trek inland towards Tom Price in the East (it sounds weird that inland is east to us East Coasties). We took the shortcut into Tom Price via the dirt road that bypasses Paraburdoo, the first 40kms treated us well, however with a massive mining camp just out of town the last bit of road was rough to say the least. When we finally found the tar again we were quite happy! We raced into town to get to the information centre before closing time at 12:30 – it is a Sunday after all – however being a Sunday they decided to be closed by 11:30 instead, despite their brochure’s advertising and front door stating elsewise. Disappointed, we wandered over to Coles to do a quick shop and somehow ran into our long running travel companions, Shannon and Angie. After a quick carpark catch up and with rain looming, it was time to head bush – Karijini National Park here we come! From the outset we were slightly disappointed with Dales Campground after being delegated where to stay by the slightly grumpy camp host and also having the park fees increased , however one look at the nearby Dales Gorge lookouts was enough to lift our spirits. Fernhook Falls, Circular Pool and the surrounding gorge were stunning, the water also looked extremely inviting, despite the weather starting to head south. The night was fast approaching so we surrendered to usual duties and decided to explore the next day.

Cliche picture at Tom Price - mining country! PS notice how white the hulk is  at the beginning of this trip.

Needing to get our money’s worth due to the increased fees, we decided a camp oven meal was in order. Usually relegated to the coals of a campfire (but not allowed in the N.P.) the obvious choice was to use the gas burners supplied in the communal picnic area. A stunning beef stroganoff made its way to our plates and ended a long day.

Fernhook Falls

We awoke bright and early and despite impending rain clouds packed a backpack and walked to Dales Gorge. Here we began our descent into the gorge on our way to Fernhook Falls. A few photographs followed, however with prior knowledge we knew the place to go was Fern Pool, hidden behind the waterfall and approximately 1km upstream. The clear, still waters was easily accessible with a boardwalk and ladder into the deep. The water was so clear we could see the bottom, as well as small fish just near the ladder. After feeling the water’s temperature we ummed and aahhed about hopping in, eventually deciding it was too beautiful not to. Respecting the wishes of the locals written on a sign, I slowly descended the ladder into the cold. Michael, however, opted for the simpler approach of jumping straight in after his depth gauge (me) had entered. We swam over to the waterfall feeding the pool where we chilled out for a little while. With a few rock platforms we were able to experience the waterfall up close, including the warmth (relative only to the rest of the pool) of the entering water and the power of the water falling – resulting in a great massage. With the cold reaching our bones we felt it time to hop out and continue our adventure.  

Fern Pool

Michael and I enjoying the cool waters of Fern Pool.

 Waiting to warm up a bit more, and for a light drizzle to pass over as we huddled under a tree, we sat and ate some Shapes and a muesli bar, then it was time to head back to the main falls. From here, we could opt to either head back the way we came, or follow the gorge through to Circular Pool. Always the adventurer, we edged our way down the slippery rocks to the gorge floor. The next two hours saw us weaving through the gorge from side to side in an attempt to avoid the water. The walk varied from grassy straights through to rock hopping across the water, edging along the base of the cliff and climbing boulders. By the end we were running low on energy, having hugely underestimated how long we would be, but the view of Circular Pool was stunning and well worth the effort. What we expected to be the worst part of the walk played up to expectations; however seemed to pass by relatively quickly as we powered our way back up the side of the gorge to the top. Now somewhat late for lunch, we walked back to camp and settled in for the afternoon. Once again the meal plan called for a camp oven meal and we were standing by the gas burners that evening – mmm casserole.

Circular Pool

That night we received over 40 mm of rain in the park, causing some of our fellow campers some discomfort, however we were high and dry and ready to explore the rest of the park. After a chat with the campground host and ranger to check the park was all still open we were off to check out some more gorges. Before heading out we went for one last look at Fernhook Falls and decided that our decision to swim and explore the day before had been a great move, as with the rain came a red sediment that turned the once crystal clear waters a murky brown. After listening to a number of grey nomads complain about the state of the gravel road compared to the (longer) bitumen road, we decided not to take their advice and once again decide for ourselves. This resulted in a large number of corrugations, however with the numerous washouts and dry creek beds that were no longer dry and now somewhat of a hazard, the road became far more interesting and our car became far more dirty/ruggedly handsome. After 30km we had managed to cover the car in red mud right the way from the tires up to the top of the camper thanks to a couple of high speed puddles.

Mud!

Our first stop was Joffre Falls, a stunning piece of nature with a lookout viewing the waterfall and river/gorge below. A bit further up the road was Knox Lookout with a view not suitable for those with a fear of heights or vertigo. This lookout gave us a glimpse onto the spectacular gorges found in the western side of Karijini. Michael and I found ourselves wishing we had abseiling tickets with some great tracks on offer. Instead we settled with a few photos and were on our way to the next collection of gorges.

Knox Lookout.

We visited Oxers Lookout after a brief look at Junction Pool. Oxers Lookout is often referred to as one of Australia’s best lookouts, with a vantage point allowing you to look over the junction of four gorges. In just one single viewing you can get an idea of how hard Mother Nature has worked to form the land we live in. Each crack, crevice and colour represent thousands of years and make you appreciate the scene in front of you and how it was formed. Wanting to get up close and personal, we went for a walk through nearby Weano Gorge. This ended up being a smaller, easier and not quite so majestic version of Dales Gorge, however was well worth the effort. The trail saw us once again hugging cliffs, rock hopping and barely keeping our shoes dry as we avoided the swollen waters of the river below. Seeing debris stuck in the trees at shoulder height provided an indication of how high the water level can get and how dangerous these gorges can be in poor weather.

One of the views from Oxers Lookout.

After enjoying some reheated stroganoff for lunch it was time to hit the road with an ambitious target of reaching Millstream Chichester National Park for the next couple of days. With Hammersley Gorge just a couple of kays off the road we had a quick stop in and wandered up the waterfall. We were tempted with a swim at the base of the falls, however the murky water and lack of sunlight within the gorge detracted from its glory and encouraged us on our way before it got dark. I heard it said once that no gorge in Karijini is like another, that each has its own special thing and they are all worth a look. I agree with this sentiment ten-fold and now believe that the epic drive in was well worth it.

The crossing that stopped us in our tracks - no way were we crossing this large and flowing river at night!

The road to Millstream Chichester N.P. was rocky, rutted, wet and corrugated, making for a great drive. A random patch of reception had the phones going crazy, however allowed us to book in with mates in Karratha for a couple of days’ time. The overnight rains continued to hamper our progress as we slowed for each washout, and as the sun started to set the road became almost treacherous in parts as we headed west. A swollen river crossing spelt the end of the journey for the day, however was a welcome excuse to pull up on the side of the road and call it a night. Luckily another caravan had done the same, confirming that the wait till morning would be the best option. Millstream Chichester N.P. will have to wait another day…

Look at some of the mud we've collected!

Lesson of the Week: Sometimes you have to put in the hard yards (or kms), but in the end you are rewarding for your efforts.